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Lincoln "L" Technical Questions

Model L Timing Chain
Author Last Post
Leaford and Allan,

Thanks for the replies. Here is the investigation so far. I wanted to document a procedure & tips about timing without tearing the engine apart or pulling up the floor boards, hence the reference to the pulley notch and mark on the timing chain cover. A timing light was used on #1 cylinder against the V in the pulley. It in fact lines up and could be a good diagnostic. Also the V should move about 1 1/2 to 2 inches to the left of the timing chain cover mark when revved to demonstrate the advance is working. If you are standing on the passenger side of the engine the mark moves toward you as the engine is revved. As of now by comparing mine against other model L engines I have concluded that I have not jumped a tooth. The V notch in the pulley should align just to the right of the timing chain cover bolt next to the distributor housing.

In my case, this problem was diagnosed down to the point springs. In 1998, I made my own springs where one was too weak and the other too strong. There is a spec of 16-20 ounces of pull tension for these springs. My R2 set was like 10 and R1 was 33. I suspect the R2 was fluttering under speed hence the power problem. I changed R2 spring and behold a new problem presented itself, a light show on the Dist cap. The pic captures a single arc, but the problem was a constant flow of jolts. Once the offending wire's ring terminal was covered in two layers of shrink tubing, that problem was resolved. Point gap was reduced to 0.018 from 0.020 and that helped the timing to come more in line.

Test drive yesterday showed engine revs up and has power. Some carb adjustments are still expected but I think this is now resolved. I will submit an article in the F&B about measuring point spring tension.
 

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There is a diagram in the service ulletin page 28-3 that shows the correct position of the two timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. As you observed they are not exactly in line. The 2 dots are shown slightly to the right of a straight line between the centers of the two sprockets. 
It would seem that the adjustment in the distributor to locate the second set of points is not able to be moved far enough.
Is it possible that the right and left bank connections are reversed? Since the firing order is not symmetrical due to the 60 degree cylinder spacing, adjustment of the following point set could be compromised...Just a hypothesis 
 
I know it's not a simple task to remove timing chain cover and I'm certain you would know about timing marks on crank and cam shaft gears but when I went thru this routine with my L engine the marks on the timing gears never lined up exactly as moving chain one tooth would just make the marks off by about the same amount the other direction. In my engine the marks on the flywheel seem to line up and correspond to ignition point break and TDC But having only test run engine in shop and not on the road can't say if it will have power
 
Folks,

This is the story of two model L engines.

Engine #1 - Assembled in 2003 and has never run right since. Symptom: Lack of power, especially at higher RPM. Won't wind out (RPM). Points on right bank adjust to put R1 under the pointer. Points on left bank are at the maximum Retard and still is not enough to put R2 under the pointer (still too advanced).
Engine #2 - Assembled but not yet started (vehicle under restoration).

The pics are of both engines' flywheel and fan pulley. Is the timing chain off a tooth? The Vee in the flywheel is supposed to align with the mark on the timing chain cover, but how far away is still allowable? I'm posting this for comment as well as document for others on this topic.
 

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